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Outside Magazine, August 2005
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The Book
You can't buy it in any store, can't send away for it online, can't meet the author (there are thousands), and you probably won't be able to read it if you do find it, since much of it is written in Hebrew. PATRICK SYMMES follows the trail of an underground global legend: the everywhere-and-nowhere travel bible of Israel's combat-fatigued, footloose vagabond youth.

By Patrick Symmes

israeli guidebook
Left: a Quechua woman in Cuzco, Peru; Right: a well-worn volume of "the Traveler's Book" at El Lobo, a hostel in La Paz, Bolivia. (Frederic LaGrange)

The pages in the Book are yellow now — not from time (what's 16 years?) but from the careless caresses of too many readers. Thousands of grubby hands have pressed their oily fingers on these pages. The drunk, bored, pissed-off, and horny of many nations have pawed through them, used them as drink coasters, and dribbled falafel crumbs into their folds. The corners are curled up, and the cover was long ago wrapped in butcher paper, as if it were porn.

This Book—this one volume in an uncountable chain—began the seventh of October, 1989, in a restaurant in La Paz, Bolivia, when somebody with time to kill inscribed the first tip. Written in English, with a slightly unsteady hand, the author recommended the Hotel Torino

I first heard the Book mentioned in the early 1990s, and I began to ask for it wherever I went. I figured that if anyone would know the best spots—or the least bad spots—it would be the Israelis.

as "probably one of the cheapest hotels in central La Paz," despite a few drawbacks ("rooms don't have windows... dark and dingy... smelly and dirty"). Here in the very first entry were the muses that have dominated the Book before and since: Thrift and her handmaid, Squalor. There was one more piece of advice on that first page. Somebody had scrawled right over the earlier text: "The night porter ripped me off ASSHOLE!!!"

There are other strange, obscure, and clandestine guidebooks and traveler's compendiums out there—the Appalachian Trail is dotted with eccentric registers, the Web bursts with blogs and tip sheets on every kind of travel. But none can claim the same global reach or high standards of gripe, rant, and insight as the Book, the best unknown guidebook in the world.

israeli guidebook
Portraits of young Israeli travelers along the Book's route in Bolivia and Peru, interspersed with scenes from the Bolivian road (Frederic LaGrange)

The Book has no one author, editor, or publisher. Defined physically, it is merely a set of loosely connected, handmade, decentralized notebooks cached throughout the vagabond meccas of Latin America and Asia—a collective, disorganized stash of travel tips, phone numbers, discount deals, crazed illustrations, conspiracy theories, backbiting marginalia, and boozy reminiscence, penned by and for the deeply broke backpackers of the world. It is known sometimes as the Traveler's Book, or the Memory Book, or the Israeli Book, because it depends mostly on Israelis—that new diaspora of young travelers who, with a mean age of 22 and some hard, mandatory military service under their belts, have given rise in the past dozen years to a global sub-tribe of poncho-wearing, sandal-sporting nomads. For the Israelis, the Book is a fluid concept, a kind of viral hypertext flitting from cork bulletin board to pocket notebook, as much an oral tradition as a written one.

Although the Book is scarcely known outside the world-within-a-world of the Israeli travel scene, it is hidden in plain sight. Four volumes are available in a certain laundromat in San José, Costa Rica. Four at an unheralded youth hostel in Bogotá, Colombia, called Platypus. In Peru, the Book is variously located in a travel agency, an upstairs watering hole in Huaraz favored by gringo trekkers, and the House of Fun, a Lima hostel that isn't even listed in Lonely Planet. If you know where to look, the Book is everywhere. Otherwise it is nowhere.

I first heard it mentioned in the early 1990s, by an Israeli paratrooper who'd just arrived in Puerto Montt, in southern Chile. "So where's the book?" he asked another Israeli. The answer, given in Hebrew, was: in a butcher shop run by a Chilean Jew. It took me a decade to understand what he had really said—not "Where is our book?" but "Where is our knowledge? Our community?"

I began to ask for the Book wherever I went, figuring that if anyone would know the best spots—or the least bad spots—it would be the Israelis. More than any other nationality, they have absorbed the ethic of global tramping with ferocity: Go far, stay long, see deep.




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Contributing editor PATRICK SYMMES is the author of Chasing Che: A Motorcycle Journey in Search of the Guevara Legend (Knopf).

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